Ring Making Techniques: Lost Wax Casting

Espada Silver
3 min readJun 2, 2023

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Rings can be made using various techniques each offering distinct design possibilities. These methods include fabrication, lost wax casting, die striking, filigree, repoussé and chasing, and stone setting. Artisans choose the technique based on factors like desired intricacy, replication needs, and personal preferences. In this article we will discover the lost wax casting method.

Designing the Ring

The journey of making ring starts with designing the ring. This can be done using traditional sketching techniques or with the help of computer-aided design software such as MatrixGold. Before the technological improvements silversmiths were shaping wax with their special tools. But in modern days most of the designing process is done by CAD programs. We will examine the modern way of ring making. Also note that traditional way of design is still exist today. But it is used for mostly custom and special orders. Here is a modern way of designing the ring by using CAD programs. The image below is an unfinished design.

A ring design made with MatrixGold CAD program. It is not finished yet but process is mostlu done only some of the destails left undone.

After the design completely finished the final result looks like the image below. As you can see it’s a ring with details and gemstone on top of it. Band of the ring has ornaments and shanks has it’s own style.

A finished ring design made by using CAD programs.

Creating The Wax Model

After the design finishes it must be materialized for casting. Traditional way of doing this step is hard and time consuming. At the old times silversmiths used their tools to shape wax. But modern way of creating wax model is much more convenient and easy compared to old way. Since the design is ready, model is made by using a 3D printer.

Preparing the Casting Flask

After the modelling of the ring is done the wax model of the ring is attached to a wax rod, known as a sprue, using a heated tool or adhesive wax. The sprue serves as a pathway for molten metal to flow into the mold and as a vent for air to escape during the casting process.

A casting flask is prepared by placing the wax model attached to the sprue inside. Plaster is mixed with water to create a slurry. The slurry is poured into the flask, ensuring complete submersion of the wax model and the absence of air bubbles. The investment is allowed to harden. The flask containing the hardened plaster and wax model is placed in a kiln or furnace for the burnout process. The purpose of burnout is to eliminate residual wax, moisture, and other impurities from the investment. The temperature is gradually increased to melt and vaporize the wax, leaving behind a cavity that will later be filled with molten metal.

Casting the Ring

Desired metal for the ring casting is melted in a preheated crucible. Once the metal reaches the appropriate temperature, the flask is carefully removed from the kiln or furnace. The molten metal is poured into the flask through the sprue opening, ensuring complete filling of the cavity. The molten metal is allowed to cool and solidify inside the flask. Once the metal has solidified, the flask is quenched in water. The plaster is broken away, revealing the rough casting of the ring.

The ring casting is removed from the plaster and the sprue is separated. The casting will likely have rough surfaces, excess metal, and sprue remnants. The casting process is done. Now it’s time to finishing the entire ring.

Resizing, Stone Setting, Polishing and Final Touches

The ring resized by silversmiths if it’s necessary. Then for the shine of the ring series of shining process applied to the ring. Here is a short video of sterling silver ring making process after casting.

Once all the processes are completed, the ring is prepared for wearing.

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Espada Silver
Espada Silver

Written by Espada Silver

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Espada Silver was born on the lands where many generations of jewelers crafted the best artwork for centuries. We are inspired by the history of it.